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Reference · nozzle and bed

Filament Temperature Chart

Starting temperatures for the common FDM filaments, with density and whether you need an enclosure. Fine-tune from here with a temperature tower.

MaterialNozzle °CBed °CEnclosureDensityNotes
PLA190–22050–60 (or none)No1.24Easiest to print. Low warping, rigid, softens around 55–60 °C.
PETG220–25070–85No1.27Tougher and more heat-resistant than PLA. Strings easily; use a little retraction and cooling.
ABS230–26095–110Yes1.04Strong and heat-resistant. Warps without an enclosure and gives off fumes; ventilate.
ASA235–26090–110Yes1.07Like ABS with UV resistance, good for outdoor parts.
TPU (flexible)210–23530–60No1.21Rubber-like. Print slowly; direct-drive extruders handle it best.
Nylon (PA)240–27070–90Recommended1.14Very tough and wear-resistant. Absorbs moisture fast; dry before printing. Density varies by grade.
Polycarbonate (PC)260–300100–120Yes1.20Highest heat resistance of common filaments. Needs an all-metal hotend.
HIPS230–25090–110Recommended1.04Often used as dissolvable support for ABS (dissolves in limonene).
PVA190–21045–60No1.23Water-soluble support material. Store sealed; it absorbs moisture quickly.

These are typical starting ranges. Always check the label on your spool: brands and blends differ, and the manufacturer’s range comes first.

How to find the best temperature for your filament

The right temperature depends on your printer, hotend, speed and even the colour of the filament. A temperature tower finds it in one print.

  1. Download or generate a temperature tower model. Many slicers include one in their calibration menu.
  2. Set it to step through the material’s range, for example 220 °C down to 190 °C for PLA in 5 °C steps.
  3. Print it and compare the sections for stringing, bridging, overhangs and surface finish.
  4. Pick the coolest section that still bonds well, then try to snap it. Weak layer bonding means the temperature is too low.

Signs your temperature is wrong

SymptomLikely causeWhat to try
Stringing and blobsToo hotLower by 5 °C, check retraction
Layers split or snap easilyToo coldRaise by 5–10 °C
Clicking extruder, gapsToo cold or too fastRaise temperature or slow down
Corners lift off the bedBed too cold or draughtsRaise bed temperature, use an enclosure
Elephant foot on first layersBed too hotLower bed by 5 °C

Keep filament dry

Most filaments absorb moisture from the air. Wet filament pops and hisses at the nozzle, strings more and prints weaker parts. Nylon, TPU and PVA absorb moisture fastest; PETG and PLA more slowly. Store spools in sealed boxes with desiccant and dry them in a filament dryer when needed.

Frequently asked questions

What temperature should I print PLA at?

Start at about 205 °C on the nozzle and 60 °C on the bed, then adjust within 190–220 °C. Faster printing needs higher temperatures.

What temperature should I print PETG at?

Start at about 235 °C with a bed of 75–80 °C. Use a little less part cooling than for PLA to keep layers bonded.

Do I need an enclosure for ABS?

In most cases, yes. ABS shrinks as it cools, and draughts cause warping and layer splits. An enclosure keeps the air warm and steady. Ventilate the room, as ABS gives off fumes while printing.

Why is the temperature on my spool different from this chart?

Each brand tunes its plastic differently. The manufacturer’s range is the best starting point for that spool; this chart is a general guide.

Last reviewed October 2026. See how we calculate.